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<?xml-stylesheet type="text/xsl" href="http://community.enginebuildermag.com/utility/FeedStylesheets/rss.xsl" media="screen"?><rss version="2.0" xmlns:dc="http://purl.org/dc/elements/1.1/" xmlns:slash="http://purl.org/rss/1.0/modules/slash/" xmlns:wfw="http://wellformedweb.org/CommentAPI/"><channel><title>Technical</title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/19.aspx</link><description>Discuss technical topics</description><dc:language>en</dc:language><generator>CommunityServer 2007 SP2 (Build: 20611.960)</generator><item><title>FORD 32 valve DOHC mod motor Build manual</title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/146.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 23 Jun 2009 03:20:34 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">abbf3a97-489a-4d74-8975-ae63bedd451e:146</guid><dc:creator>FABrauer</dc:creator><slash:comments>1</slash:comments><comments>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/146.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=19&amp;PostID=146</wfw:commentRss><description>Does anyone know if there is a Ford factory manual for building these motors. I know these motors that went into the Mustang Cobras were built by two man teams. </description></item><item><title>porting and polishing</title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/156.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 14 Jul 2009 20:56:27 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">abbf3a97-489a-4d74-8975-ae63bedd451e:156</guid><dc:creator>mogman</dc:creator><slash:comments>3</slash:comments><comments>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/156.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=19&amp;PostID=156</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Ive heard many people say, mostly car enthusiast that porting and polishing works like a charm and its the best thing to do for maximum perfermance. i once read in a superchevy mag. that the porting part works but not the polishing part so i asked the machinist where i worked and he agreed. so i want more opinions or the truth to this myth.&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>99 gmc  4.8 l gen 3 lr4 </title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/166.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 19 Aug 2009 20:56:14 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">abbf3a97-489a-4d74-8975-ae63bedd451e:166</guid><dc:creator>Keitheloomer</dc:creator><slash:comments>2</slash:comments><comments>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/166.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=19&amp;PostID=166</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;HAS anyone had&amp;nbsp; coolent in oil problem&amp;nbsp; with these motors&amp;nbsp; we checked the heads under valvle covers saw no washing there&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; lots of coolant build up under covers&amp;nbsp; any one know if these have a oil cooler in radator&amp;nbsp; or know of head gasget leaks into valley&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; no trace of coolant in cylinders at all&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; or possible&amp;nbsp; block cracks&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; truck did not freeze&amp;nbsp; allways been maintaned&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; we also checked for the bad head casting&amp;nbsp;there not on this engine&amp;nbsp;&amp;nbsp; any input would be helpfull thanks&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>lt1 engine</title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/194.aspx</link><pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 22:28:04 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">abbf3a97-489a-4d74-8975-ae63bedd451e:194</guid><dc:creator>deepfish</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/194.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=19&amp;PostID=194</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;hi guy&amp;#39;s,im a newbie here,but i am a member of marine engine.im in the process of repowering my boat.i want to use a 350 lt1 short block.i am told by the marine engine folks that the lt1 will not work because it has a reverse cooled block.is this true, and how doe&amp;#39;s it work.i&amp;#39;m in the dark here.you would think that all 350 blocks would be the same.thanks for your input.&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>Harley Crank Balancing Question</title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/39.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 18 Mar 2008 14:41:51 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">abbf3a97-489a-4d74-8975-ae63bedd451e:39</guid><dc:creator>bbaker</dc:creator><slash:comments>1</slash:comments><comments>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/39.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=19&amp;PostID=39</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I have a question from a reader asking about how to balance a harley-davidson crank. Hopefully someone out there can help him out. Thanks.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Here&amp;#39;s his question:&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;Is the bobweight card the same as V8? Do you weight match the small end of the rod and the big end, and pistons? Then, do you use 52% recip. and 100% rot.? Then remove or add weight to flywheels? What about the weight of the crank pin bearing?&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>Checking Machine Shop Work</title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/150.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 01 Jul 2009 22:17:34 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">abbf3a97-489a-4d74-8975-ae63bedd451e:150</guid><dc:creator>jesuscowboy</dc:creator><slash:comments>2</slash:comments><comments>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/150.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=19&amp;PostID=150</wfw:commentRss><description>I had local machine shop overhaul 351W block; just curious can I check his work to make sure everything is good.  I just bought a bore gauge to check mains and rods.  Also I can check cylinders for out of round and make sure tolerances are good there but what about the line bore of camshaft.  He installed cam bearings so  can I still use a straight edge with feeler gauges even though the cam bearings are in.  Also what do you guys recommend for engine lube (brand).  I had someone tell me to use ATF on cylinder walls.  I will use mellings cam and there assembly lube.  I have heard some say use just engine oil some say only use moly paste, others say just use over the counter engine lube.</description></item><item><title>3.0L Ford Engine F6DEDE Block number 1995 to 1998</title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/191.aspx</link><pubDate>Sat, 14 Nov 2009 17:35:12 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">abbf3a97-489a-4d74-8975-ae63bedd451e:191</guid><dc:creator>philip caron</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/191.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=19&amp;PostID=191</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Ford Taurus year 2000 flex fuel engine.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Can the subject 3.0L F6DEDE complete engine totally replace a Ford Taurus 2000 flex fuel engine?&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Is there a problem with the computer set ups for the flex fuel that would cause a problem running the 1995 / 1998 engine for timing etc. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;What needs to be changed to adapt the 1995/98 engine to operate in the 2000 flex fuel Taurus? &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Phil Caron&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>compression and leakdwon test?</title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/190.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 13 Nov 2009 22:10:11 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">abbf3a97-489a-4d74-8975-ae63bedd451e:190</guid><dc:creator>jetblast</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/190.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=19&amp;PostID=190</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;anyone here done these test often? i was curious if good test results can still be misleading. my motor has 83k hard miles. and blows the dip stick out but, only about an inch. i replace the valley cover hose with a home made catch can that is working pretty good so far. the motor is pulling 15hg steady vacuum. oh, i have no oil consumption problems either and the plugs look great.&amp;nbsp; &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;i have been spraying the motor with 100w shots for a while, &amp;nbsp;this season alone i have over 28 1/4 mi passes and i spray it all out, no progression.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;br /&gt;i passed the compression test with unexpected results... &lt;br /&gt;#6,8 cylinders developed 195psi hot, the rest were 200psi hot. while viewing the gauge for pump up, i cranked the engine 4 pumps on all cylinders.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;the leakdown test was done with the engine cold. {overnight}. &lt;br /&gt;the results were between 90% 92% for all.&amp;nbsp; i would appreciate any seasoned experienced opinions.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>small block chevy info please</title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/189.aspx</link><pubDate>Sun, 08 Nov 2009 00:46:12 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">abbf3a97-489a-4d74-8975-ae63bedd451e:189</guid><dc:creator>d14099</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/189.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=19&amp;PostID=189</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;i could use some help, i own an 88 chevy 5.7 4x4 p/u. at 264,000 the engine is tired.&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;i have a rebuilt 85 5.7 that was just rebuilt i also have a fresh set of 88 5.7&amp;nbsp;cylinder heads, that im going to install on the 85 block so i can use the original intake and fuel injection set up. so here is the questions&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;the 88 is an origainl roller type cam/lifter set up, one peice rear main seal, dipstick on the passenger side,if i remember the 88 block has a different lifter valley&amp;nbsp; set up than the 85 so what to do ??&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;i know i need a different flex plate, im not sure if there is a provision on the 85 block for the knock sensor, if you can give me some advice or let me know if i forgot something,&lt;/strong&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&lt;strong&gt;&lt;/strong&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>6.0 Diesel head surface </title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/181.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 16 Oct 2009 20:21:50 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">abbf3a97-489a-4d74-8975-ae63bedd451e:181</guid><dc:creator>GabrielRamirez</dc:creator><slash:comments>1</slash:comments><comments>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/181.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=19&amp;PostID=181</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Does any one know if you can surface a 2003&amp;nbsp; Ford 6.0 liter diesel head and if so how much can you take off?&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>Polished Crank</title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/185.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 27 Oct 2009 00:25:55 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">abbf3a97-489a-4d74-8975-ae63bedd451e:185</guid><dc:creator>Pro$treet</dc:creator><slash:comments>1</slash:comments><comments>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/185.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=19&amp;PostID=185</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;If a steel crankshaft has been polished to a &amp;quot;10-10&amp;quot;, what exactly does that mean?&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Thanks&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>Choosing a 4 port carb for trackdays</title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/183.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 23 Oct 2009 20:33:35 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">abbf3a97-489a-4d74-8975-ae63bedd451e:183</guid><dc:creator>petterhval</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/183.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=19&amp;PostID=183</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Hi!&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I have a seven style kitcar fitted with a Rover 4.8L V8 (based upon the old 3.5L Buick design), which is tuned with ported heads and a hot camshaft, supposedly putting out about 350bhp(at the flywheel).Currently it is fitted with a Edelbrock 600cfm carb, and it does not work very well when cornering on the track(it is misfireing).&amp;nbsp; I have heard that other makes(of carbs)&amp;nbsp;make 4 port carbs better suited for my use. What would be your recomendation&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Regards&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Petter&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>2000 Chevy Cavalier needs new engine</title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/180.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 13 Oct 2009 12:44:02 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">abbf3a97-489a-4d74-8975-ae63bedd451e:180</guid><dc:creator>Jane Anderson</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/180.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=19&amp;PostID=180</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;My fiance&amp;#39;s 2000 Chevy Cavalier needs a new engine. He seems determined to fix and keep the car. It has about 150,000k mi. and he&amp;#39;s already put new water pump , battery and had existing head gasket repaired. It was overheating and now he&amp;#39;s found an engine on the internet, I think the company is called Everready or something. The engine and installation cost about 2,900 and they guarentee the engine for 3 yrs. I just want to make sure he isn&amp;#39;t getting ripped off. He said they have been in business for 30 yrs and we could check with Auto Zone . &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Pete still owes 1,700.00 on the car loan and so since he has to pay that off he feels fixing the car is best&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Please help with your expertiseas he&amp;#39;s planning on getting this by the weekend.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Many thanks,&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Jane&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>Cylinders head bolts</title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/179.aspx</link><pubDate>Mon, 12 Oct 2009 18:06:31 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">abbf3a97-489a-4d74-8975-ae63bedd451e:179</guid><dc:creator>mayson</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/179.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=19&amp;PostID=179</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;div class="vb_postbit" id="post_message_82837"&gt;just put cylinder head back on escort td 1998 s reg and there is 3 stages to tighten bolts..&lt;br /&gt;stage 1 .. tighten bolts 10Nm in sequence&lt;br /&gt;stage 2 .. tighten bolts 100Nm in sequence&lt;br /&gt;stage 3 .. after 3 minutes slacken bolt number 1 off 180* then tighten it &lt;br /&gt;70Nm then tighten a further 120* then repeat stage 3 with rest of bolts in sequence .. finshed&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;why do you slacken bolts off . on all the cars i worked on before you just tighten them in sequence never slacked them off before &lt;img class="inlineimg" title="Confused" alt="" src="http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</description></item><item><title>1996 cavZ24 quad 4</title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/178.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 07 Oct 2009 03:22:36 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">abbf3a97-489a-4d74-8975-ae63bedd451e:178</guid><dc:creator>rickranisate</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/178.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=19&amp;PostID=178</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I have a 1996 Cavalier Z24 with a quad 4 . The car starts runs for a minuit and shuts off the oil pressure pumps to 85 psi and holds the valves open have replaced the oil pump and replaced the pressure regulator cover with the updated GM cover same thing any help would be very much appreciated can contact me at &lt;a href="mailto:rickranisate@hotmail.com"&gt;rickranisate@hotmail.com&lt;/a&gt; thanks &lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>Quad four flex plate</title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/177.aspx</link><pubDate>Thu, 01 Oct 2009 22:27:13 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">abbf3a97-489a-4d74-8975-ae63bedd451e:177</guid><dc:creator>rsmolens</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/177.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=19&amp;PostID=177</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Were GM quad four engines known for flex plate problems??&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>5.3L FWD use in a RWD application</title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/170.aspx</link><pubDate>Mon, 14 Sep 2009 16:53:31 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">abbf3a97-489a-4d74-8975-ae63bedd451e:170</guid><dc:creator>LS1MonteSS</dc:creator><slash:comments>2</slash:comments><comments>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/170.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=19&amp;PostID=170</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I would like to know if a FWD 5.3L can be used for a RWD car?&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Comments and thoughts!&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Thanks, &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Kevin&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>quad four lower coolant tube</title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/174.aspx</link><pubDate>Wed, 23 Sep 2009 18:28:33 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">abbf3a97-489a-4d74-8975-ae63bedd451e:174</guid><dc:creator>rsmolens</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/174.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=19&amp;PostID=174</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Is the metal tube that runs from the&amp;nbsp;lower hose coming from the radiator&amp;nbsp;to the bottom of the water pump supposed to be almost flat?? If so would Bars Leak cause it to be blocked??&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>2.3 quad four starter</title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/173.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2009 21:54:08 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">abbf3a97-489a-4d74-8975-ae63bedd451e:173</guid><dc:creator>rsmolens</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/173.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=19&amp;PostID=173</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I am looking for some helpful tips on removing the starter on my 95 2.3 quad four in my Grand Am. I need to replace the solenoid. Also how hard is to drop the oil pan to check the bearings.&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>cylinder head torque specs 1999 3.8 v6 ford</title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/172.aspx</link><pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2009 15:38:11 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">abbf3a97-489a-4d74-8975-ae63bedd451e:172</guid><dc:creator>chad7120</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/172.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=19&amp;PostID=172</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;i am looking for torque specs on the cyl heads and the rocker arms.... can anyone help?&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;or do i have too go buy the book again?&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>Competition Cylinder Heads</title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/9.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 17 Aug 2007 18:17:34 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">abbf3a97-489a-4d74-8975-ae63bedd451e:9</guid><dc:creator>bbaker</dc:creator><slash:comments>5</slash:comments><comments>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/9.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=19&amp;PostID=9</wfw:commentRss><description>I&amp;#39;d like to get a discusion going about selecting cylinder heads for drag racing (i.e., bracket, street/strip). How do you choose the right heads these days with all the choices in the aftermarket? Do you really need to port aftermarket heads or can you match them to the right combinations without porting? Should you choose heads based only on the flow numbers? 
</description></item><item><title>Intake Manifold Gasket</title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/162.aspx</link><pubDate>Sat, 15 Aug 2009 16:50:24 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">abbf3a97-489a-4d74-8975-ae63bedd451e:162</guid><dc:creator>tataylor</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/162.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=19&amp;PostID=162</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;Hi - I&amp;#39;m installing a crate motor in my son&amp;#39;s 1995 firebird with a 3.4L V6.&amp;nbsp; The lower intake manifold gaskets have different sized restrictors on one of the coolant ports.&amp;nbsp; Can anyone give me some guidance as to which gasket is for the right or left side?&amp;nbsp; I have a picture from of the old engine and it appears the larger hole is on the left, but the gasket has a R stamped on it.&amp;nbsp; The other gasket has O stamped on it.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;Any help would be appreciated.&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>2.2L 1998 S10</title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/161.aspx</link><pubDate>Thu, 13 Aug 2009 01:26:21 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">abbf3a97-489a-4d74-8975-ae63bedd451e:161</guid><dc:creator>richz28</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/161.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=19&amp;PostID=161</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I have a 98 S10, 2.2L, 5spd, motor blown, should I overhaul, or can I replace it with a 2.2L from a cavalier, and what all would need to be swapped out.&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>I need your help - dealership claiming I damaged bearings in engine</title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/160.aspx</link><pubDate>Fri, 07 Aug 2009 20:54:40 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">abbf3a97-489a-4d74-8975-ae63bedd451e:160</guid><dc:creator>Shelly</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/160.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=19&amp;PostID=160</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;I took my car, Subru -&amp;nbsp;WRX/STI into the shop for them to check the blow off valve.&amp;nbsp; When I picked it up and went to leave I new something was wrong.&amp;nbsp;When I brought it back to the dealership they opened it up and stated that&amp;nbsp;the 3rd bearing&amp;nbsp;was bad due to lack of lubrication.&amp;nbsp; I&amp;#39;ve always kept the oil clean and full.&amp;nbsp; They are stating that the only way this could have happened is that I took a sharp turn at a high rate of speed and the oil pulled to the side, causing metal on metal.&amp;nbsp; I just drove from Idaho to N. Carolina without any incidents.&amp;nbsp; This noise did not occur until I went to pick&amp;nbsp;up the car.&amp;nbsp;I realize this is a high powered car, but I haven&amp;#39;t taken turns like they have claimed. I&amp;nbsp;contacted Subru and they have stated that they found that there isn&amp;#39;t any defective parts, therefore the warranty doesn&amp;#39;t stand.&amp;nbsp; I new engin was put in 8 months ago.&amp;nbsp; I really could use some advise - they are stating this will cost $4,500 to fix.&amp;nbsp; Please - help me.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Shelly&lt;/p&gt;</description></item><item><title>Comp Cams 6500 / damper fitment</title><link>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/159.aspx</link><pubDate>Thu, 30 Jul 2009 19:52:30 GMT</pubDate><guid isPermaLink="false">abbf3a97-489a-4d74-8975-ae63bedd451e:159</guid><dc:creator>SoCalJim</dc:creator><slash:comments>0</slash:comments><comments>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/thread/159.aspx</comments><wfw:commentRss>http://community.enginebuildermag.com/forums/commentrss.aspx?SectionID=19&amp;PostID=159</wfw:commentRss><description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;span style="FONT-FAMILY:Arial;FONT-SIZE:10pt;"&gt;I have a SBC (Dart SHP) engine that I’m putting a Comp Cams 6500 camshaft belt drive on. I am having problems getting my Pro Products 90002 damper to fit. The damper outer ring hits the thick washer and bolts on the camshaft pulley. &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;span style="FONT-FAMILY:Arial;FONT-SIZE:10pt;"&gt;I had the washer turned down to clear the damper, but now the damper ring hits the six camshaft pulley bolts. If I mill the bolts down to fit, there will only be about .210” of bolt to get a nut onto.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="FONT-FAMILY:Arial;FONT-SIZE:10pt;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="FONT-FAMILY:Arial;FONT-SIZE:10pt;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="FONT-FAMILY:Arial;FONT-SIZE:10pt;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="FONT-FAMILY:Arial;FONT-SIZE:10pt;"&gt;I called Pro Products and they say all their dampers have the same outer ring offset.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="FONT-FAMILY:Arial;FONT-SIZE:10pt;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="FONT-FAMILY:Arial;FONT-SIZE:10pt;"&gt;I can’t use shims to move the damper further out because there’s only 1.050” of snout mating with the damper now.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="FONT-FAMILY:Arial;FONT-SIZE:10pt;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="FONT-FAMILY:Arial;FONT-SIZE:10pt;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="FONT-FAMILY:Arial;FONT-SIZE:10pt;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="FONT-FAMILY:Arial;FONT-SIZE:10pt;"&gt;I called Comp Cams and they said “&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="FONT-FAMILY:Arial;FONT-SIZE:10pt;"&gt;There is nothing abnormal about our belt drive that will require a special damper, any everything should work.”&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="FONT-FAMILY:Arial;FONT-SIZE:10pt;"&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="FONT-FAMILY:Arial;FONT-SIZE:10pt;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="FONT-FAMILY:Arial;FONT-SIZE:10pt;"&gt;I just need a damper (preferably 8”) whose outer ring is about .200” further forward of the block face.&lt;span style="mso-spacerun:yes;"&gt;&amp;nbsp; &lt;/span&gt;Any ideas?&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="FONT-FAMILY:Arial;FONT-SIZE:10pt;"&gt;&lt;/span&gt; 
&lt;p&gt;&amp;nbsp;&lt;/p&gt;</description></item></channel></rss>